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Denis Montanar comes from a long line of farmers. For him, it began in 1989 when Denis
rented out a vineyard owned by his grandfather. Soon after, he bought two additional
acres and started his own little winery. In 1995, joined by his wife Alessia, Denis
decided to purchase another ten and half acres that included a small farmhouse. Denis
decided to name his winery after the local dialect word for a medieval hamlet presently
owned by the Montanar family called BORC DODON. Still present today are the buildings
that housed building materials dating back to Roman times. In addition to the vineyards,
Denis had reserved some acreage for the cultivation of maize meal. This is completely
organic product, produced from ancient strands of maize. The maize is still stone-ground
as it was centuries ago. The cultivation of vineyards has been totally organic for the
past eight years. In fact, when Denis bought his first pieces of land, nothing would
grow on it organically. He was forced to wait 3 years for the land to regenerate after
decades of chemical use and abuse. Now he is one of the only wine producers in the
area that doesn't use artificial chemicals. The Montanar family's wines consist of:
Refosco dal Peduncolo, Uis Neris which in the Friulian dialect meaning "Black Grapes",
Uis Blancis; White Grapes in Friulano, Verduzzo Friulano, Tocai Friulano and Merlot.
Ultimately, the driving concept of the family's production is both to maintain a
traditional and Biodynamic way of farming and to respect the knowledge and appreciation
of local culture and traditions.
As mentioned Denis avoids all technological processes and chemical treatments that would
not only ruin the typical taste and smell of his wines but also compromise the differences
between one vintage to the next. He prefers only to work with total respect of the environment
and strives to bring back what he calls "living wines". All of his wines develop differently
over time in the bottle. There will never be 2 similar bottles of the same vineyard from the
same vintage. Denis insists that if our ancestors could make amazing wine without the use of
chemicals then why can't we in the present? Denis's belief is all this gives wine a life.
All the grapes are handpicked, unlike a machine that also removes the leaves, pieces of
vine and bugs. The harvest is a gathering between families but is also a seasonal source
of income that people in Friuli can count on. Since the use of machines very few wineries
actually do what is called in Italian "la vendemmia come una volta". A harvest of hard
work and fun times. Often with many larger estates the grapes are harvested by one
person and a machine. Denis still believes in having people do the picking, even if
it costs more money. The atmosphere and the memories of every vintage is something he
likes to hold on to. His appreciation of local culture and traditions is second to
none.
After the picking, the maceration is done in "tini aperti" for a period of 4 to 35
days depending on the grape varietal. This technique brings some risks because the
grapes are in contact with oxygen. Denis stirs the fermenting juice 3 to 4 times
a day to reduce the risks of oxidation. The pressing is done manually with a vertical
hydraulic press, which also reduces contact with oxygen.
The fermentation is started using natural yeast. No cultured yeasts are ever used.
This is a practice that many avoid as this technique takes more work and attention.
Denis adds very little quantities of SO2. In fact as minimal as possible is used
and sometimes none at all. During the summer Denis uses very little copper and
sulfur diluted in water to protect the fruit while on the vine. The amount is only
about 5gm/100L.
Unlike many other producers who spray pesticides Denis prefers using only natural
elements such as flowers, bugs, bees, hares, pheasants etc. to live and thrive in
the vineyards. They are considered all a part of the vine's life in the vineyard.
If you walk in a vineyard 3 days after a chemical treatment, you would not see a
single fly. Everything is killed resulting in all other life forms keeping away as
there is nothing for them to thrive on.
The results of Denis's natural treatments are much less production than a non-organic
producer; roughly half. Absolutely no use of anything harmful for humans or the
environment is ever used to produce his wines. These wines are completely natural
to the 10th power. They are produced as naturally as a wine can be produced. The
bottles are even sealed using natural bees wax.
Certified Biodynamic
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